12 Under 20 : Vol 6

Drawn from the cool of Victoria’s King Valley, this is a shoe-in contender for best value bubbles on the planet – loaded with punchy lemon sherbet fruit, nicely supported by a charge of tiny bubbles, & a finish that pulls up clean & dry. These are quality all-terrain bubbles equally at home as Friday night drinks or for lazy fish & chips on the beach.

Frankland Estate winemaker Hunter Smith has long been regarded as one of the standout Riesling producers in Australia. Consistently ranking as one of the best value examples of its kind produced anywhere, the latest instalment of the Rocky Gully Riesling boasts smells of ripe citrus fruit, slate & mineral, while the palate is broad, limey, pure & dry. Take a bottle to Sunday yum cha.

Having worked for some of WA’s best-known producers, & with a coveted Jimmy Watson trophy to his name, winemaker Jeremy Gordon continues to hone his skills under his own label, Amelia Park. This is a textbook blend of Semillon & Sauvignon Blanc, where smells of restrained tropical & citrus fruit sing alongside those of leafy summer herbs, peas, green peppercorns & minerals. In the mouth, it hits rich & focused with taught citrus-like fruit balanced by fine zippy acid. Drink it with spinach & ricotta pies.

Under the watchful eye of Cath Wilcock, Tim Shand (Punt Road, Airlie Bank) handcrafts Lucky Cat into Pinot Gris of both style & substance. Partial fermentation in old oak, a short time on skins & lees stirring all add to the resulting wine. Expect a bright nose full of ripe orchard fruit, citrus & spice smells, while in your mouth it’s rich, round, long & dry. Drink it with kingfish carpaccio.

Kumeu River has long been regarded as one of the finest Chardonnay producers outside of Burgundy. The entry-level ‘Village’ Chardonnay is a jaw-dropping introduction to the estate, with fruit drawn from multiple vineyards around Kumeu. Focused & intense citrus fruit provide the foundation upon which you’ll find layers of spice & cashew, while the palate is finely textured, savoury & long. Drink it with chargrilled squid & salsa verde.

Situated at the foothills of Victoria’s Alpine region, the cool of the King Valley provides a near perfect environment for a cast of Italian grape varieties. Sangiovese is the star here, producing a pale & beautifully textured rosé crammed with smells of sour cherry, redcurrant & dried herbs, while a fresh fruity palate gives way to crunchy acidity & a clean, drying finish. A crusty baguette, some good cheese, salami & a handful of salty olives will be perfect.

The recently crowned Gourmet Traveller WINE Winemaker of the Year, Dave Bicknell, is responsible for some of the most memorable examples of both Chardonnay & Pinot Noir to emerge from Victoria in recent times. His ‘Over the Shoulder’ range is hands down some of the best value wine you will drink. From a warm & quick Yarra Valley vintage, this is straight-shooting Pinot Noir that delivers in spades with layers of sweet red-berried fruit & bramble on the nose, while the palate is plush, intense & drinking beautifully now. Drink it with chicken & mushroom pie.

This is delicious old-school Beaujolais from Paul & Pierre Durdilly that’s as happy in the fridge as out of it. Fermented in glass-lined concrete tanks, there’s plenty to love about this wine – a love that kicks off with a bright & bouncy nose of wild raspberry, plum & sour cherry smells & continues with a soft, dark & chewy mouthful of delicious Gamay fruit. Bright acidity & uber-fine tannins help to keep things under control. Drink it with chicken liver parfait & plenty of crusty bread.

Hailing from the northern reaches of Chianti, Camporsino is a clean & modern example of Sangiovese, where smells of sweet red cherry, blackcurrant & wild raspberry knit beautifully with those of dried leaf, sap & spice. In your mouth, it’s layered with bright & energetic fruit, & nicely framed by a wash of dry & grippy Sangiovese tannin. Drink it with Friday night pizza.

A former resident of Bordeaux, Malbec has risen to become one of the true superstars of Argentina’s flourishing wine scene. Plucked from high altitude vineyards tucked neatly into the foothills of the Andes Mountains, Alamos is deeply coloured with masses of dried dark fruit & spice. In the mouth, it’s soft & plush, with bright acidity, some well-judged cedary oak & fine grippy tannins to finish. Drink it with chargrilled rib eye.

Under his own label, legendary Northern Rhône-based Stéphane Ogier produces an incredible range of wines from lesser-known subregions within the commune – in this case, the Collines Rhodaniennes. From 100% Syrah, the colour here is neon purple, while the nose is packed with raspberry, black cherry & trademark Rhône pepper & spice. In the mouth, there’s plenty of bright fruit, fresh acidity & some dry, grippy tannin to keep things balanced. Drink it with wood-roasted duck.

The Clare-based Barry family have a well-earned reputation for turning out some of South Australia’s most consistently high-quality examples of both Shiraz & Riesling. Drawn from the cool of Lodge Hill (480 m), one of the highest vineyards in Clare, expect layers of black & red fruit, cool earth & subdued cedary oak, while the palate is plush, direct & firmly structured. Drink it with barbecued butterflied lamb.